Pemba lies to the north of Zanzibar, about 20 minutes by air. Pemba is an island of deserted beaches, few lodges and small rural villages, the perfect combination after days spent on safari. It is more undulating and densely vegetated than Zanzibar with natural forest and plantations and was often referred to by early Arab sailors as El Hethera, ‘the green’. With cloves being the main crop grown here, tourism and fishing have become specialities. The beaches are stunning, vast and empty and an 800m deep channel splits Pemba Island from the continent, making this one of Africa’s greatest deep-sea fishing and diving destinations. On the island itself, walking excursions through forests are very worthwhile, revealing many native species including spectacular ferns and giant trees. There are also cycle-rides, dhow trips, many archaeological sites to explore and afterwards fresh lobster, fish and other tropical and spicy delicacies to enjoy.